Making Blanks Part l

Making Blank Ammo

When I started making blanks some years ago I discovered something right off the bat. There was little or no info anywhere in regards to the subject. I looked everywhere to no avail. If there was something written about blanks I was unable to locate it. Anyway I applied the same methods that I used for designing bullets or other oddball projects I engage in, trial and error. There was plenty of error believe me but that’s how you learn. After some searching I found some blank powder at a gun show but no instructions as to how much to use in a given cartridge. Factory blanks are sometimes available but hard to find. I don’t see blanks listed in any of the national catalogs that list live ammo.

Almost any gun can be made to fire blanks. Westerns use replica guns that look and function like the originals. Needless to say the antiques are too valuable to use in movies. They frequently get dropped or thrown and with a gun valued at several grand that isn’t a good thing. Semi autos are the hardest to make blanks for. You need to have a blank adapter to cycle the action. It takes a little more work to make it fit and get the desired noise level though it is a doable project. There are some guns that are made to shoot blanks only. Some of them are pot metal junk that I would hesitate to shoot. They have a shield in front of the cylinder that does nothing but create a hazard. You can get a buildup in front of the cylinder that can in the least jam the gun. I have tried a couple and my comment is thanks but no thanks. Personally I prefer the regular guns for my blank shooting. Shooting blanks in your regular gun has another benefit. Any gun handling is a benefit in maintaining proficiency with that firearm.

The first thing was to obtain or make dies. Most companies don’t sell them however blank crimping dies can be bought from C H Tool and Die Company. They come in an assortment of calibers and I imagine they will make a custom size for an extra fee. They are necessary if you plan on crimping any cases. They run from about $60 to $100 depending on caliber. 5 in 1 dies are the most expensive though they will fit most budgets. In order to do rifle blanks they are absolutely necessary in order to have cases feed. If there is another company out there that makes blank dies they have kept it a secret from me. Hornady however has recently introduced a blank die. I have one but haven’t used it enough to comment on it. Any regular loading press can be used, mine being the RCBS Ammo master single stage press. I use a Rockchucker for smaller blanks as they don’t need as much leverage or stroke length. One of my dies the 30 caliber I shortened to be able to crimp such cases as the 32 short cases. When I do 30-06 blanks I have to back up the insert so I can get the necessary leverage and feel when doing those blanks. Some of my other blank dies are also shortened to make them more versatile.

My first project was 45 Colt blanks. Requirements were that they be loud and not put any holes in a single sheet of newspaper at 5 feet. Also they could not be crimped. After some trials with different materials I ended up with sheet Styrofoam. The sheet was an inch thick and 18 X 48”. To cut wads I used a 50-70 case with the primer pocket drilled out and a nail with a big head to push it out of the case once cut. A chamfering tool keeps the case sharp for good cutting. I modified a bullet-seating die to put the wad down in the case against the powder with an extended seating stem. The ideal load was 8 grains of this powder. It gave a good loud noise and discintrigrated the wad as required. This load also does not have a crimped case. I do slightly crimp the case mouth to facilitate feeding. It makes a difference if the case is straight or slightly crimped. The problem with making blanks for revolvers is if they are not strong enough the gun will jam. The primer backs out and doesn’t seat back into the case which will stop the cylinder from turning. The only way to over come that is to make the blank stronger.

Some people don’t like crimped cases because sometimes a piece of brass might come off acting as a projectile. While that is possible if the gun is pointed in a safe direction no one should get hurt. Heavy duty clothing helps but don’t count on it for protection especially at close range. There have been actors that have been seriously injured or killed by the careless use of blanks such as Bruce Lee. Starline makes 45 Colt cases especially for black powder blanks. The flash holes are larger giving better ignition to them. The cases are head stamped for blanks and should not be used for loaded ammo with smokeless powder. The extra ignition can cause a dangerous pressure spike with smokeless powder. Using them for black powder ammo shouldn’t cause any problems which I have done.

Blanks should never be fired at someone at close range. This is especially true at the facial area. Doing so can seriously injure or even kill someone. Blanks produce muzzle blast and expel projectiles mostly unburned powder for a short distance. Stay back at least 10 feet and aim at a body that has heavier clothing on. Better yet aim to the side of them.

Blank powder is very fine and has to be well sealed in the case to avoid leakage. As a note never use blank powder for live ammo it will certainly destroy the gun and maybe part of you. It is simply way too fast to be used as a propellant.

The 45 Colt can be loaded with black powder to good effect. If you crimp it sometimes it sticks in the cylinder. To avert that I size case in a 38-40 die load full about 30-32 grains of FFFg black powder will suffice. Ditto for Clean Shot or Pyrodex. Crimping a case in a blank die will shorten its reloading life. You can also fill with black powder and use a Styrofoam wad, which works pretty well. It won’t however destroy the wad like the blank powder load will so keep that in mind. The wad may act as a projectile for a short distance. Also may be light up so watch for fire hazards in dry areas. In the south western US where I live that is a real concern. Thin cork wads may work for you if you can find them. Gasket material can make a decent wad. You might seal the cork with some varnish or similar material which will help out especially if you carry them around in your pocket. Keep in mind that doing that may create a projectile for a short distance and plan accordingly. Some folks put wax over the powder which can work ok though I would hesitate to pour hot wax in a case full of powder. You can mold the wax and seat much like you would a bullet. The 44-40 and 38-40 can be loaded using the same methods. The bottom line is you can tailor the blanks to your specific needs.